Through the fire: Houston barbecue scores big in inaugural Texas Michelin Guide

After creating Houston’s biggest foodie buzz since “Top Chef” fired up the Bayou City in 2022, the esteemed Michelin Guide organizers came, conquered then quickly departed, leaving behind a restaurant community dizzy and still seeing stars.

Texas’ first Michelin survey (announced Nov. 11 from H-town) inevitably produced some unexpected results, a few goofs and some very hurt feelings. But the major take-away was epic – a seismic culinary jolt full of fire and smoke. Texas barbecue rules!

In a move no one could have predicted, the Michelin inspectors, known for recognizing only the finest of fine dining, gave a sweeping nod to a whopping 26 Texas barbecue joints, including four one-star designations – the only American barbecue restaurants in the world with a Michelin star. That inaugural class of elite pitmastery includes Spring-based CorkScrew BBQ and three Austin joints, LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, Interstellar BBQ and La Barbecue.

Houston barbecue proved it's no longer in the smoky shadows of Austin by scoring seven Bib Gourmand designations (a category the recognizes “good quality food for a good value”). The Pit Room, Truth Barbecue, Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Blood Bros. BBQ, Killen’s BBQ, Pinkerton’s BBQ and Rosemeyer Bar-B-Q – all in Houston and the city’s suburbs – are now Michelin Bib Gourmand standouts. Additionally, Brisket & Rice, which operates out of a Houston gas station, received a Recommended designation recognizing a restaurant offering “high quality dining.”

Overall, it’s a remarkable achievement for Houston barbecue. And for Texas, now certifiably the world’s epicenter of American-style barbecue (as if we didn’t know that already).

Michelin’s fondness for smoked meats is also a measure of just how far the craft barbecue movement has come in the span of 15 years. While barbecue has long enjoyed a beloved place in the history of Texas foodways, the modern barbecue renaissance is generally traced to Aaron Franklin in Austin. Initially operating out of a trailer in 2009, Franklin’s skill with brisket created a Texas barbecue juggernaut that swept the world. In 2015 he earned a James Beard Award as Best Chef: Southwest for his work at Franklin Barbecue, becoming the first pitmaster to win the most prestigious award in American culinary.

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Franklin Barbecue’s success underscored the work of legendary legacy barbecue joints throughout the state and emboldened dozens of would-be pitmasters to step closer to the fire and open their own smokehouse.
It’s safe to say we wouldn’t have the likes of The Pit Room (the Montrose joint that grew so wildly popular a second restaurant was added this year in Memorial), Blood Bros. BBQ, Truth BBQ and Pinkerton’s BBQ were it not for the fame Franklin’s found.

Today, the Houston barbecue community stands proud as accomplished exemplars of the art of smoked meats. Texas barbecue has arrived and continues to evolve, turning out new stars within the modern barbecue movement. We know that; and now, thanks to Michelin, the world does too.

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